Making Soil Fertile
The three major nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium they give different benefits on plants. Nitrogen aids growth, phosphorus is needed for root growth and vigor, and potassium helps increase plant metabolism and disease resistance. Clay soil contains a high percentage of clay particles and feels lumpy to the touch. The small size of the clay particles means that they clump together quite readily and there is less room for air spaces. Clay soils have poor drainage and do not hold nutrients very well. This is a heavy soil and is sticky when wet making it hard to work with. As much as possible you should take steps to improve the drainage of this type of soil. Silty soil contains a high percentage of silt particles and feels smooth to the touch. This soil is a well drained soil due to the size of the particles allowing space for water to fill. This soil holds nutrients more easily than clay soil due to the spaces. It is easy to farm but can be compacted quite easily. Sandy soil contains a high percentage of sand particles and feels gritty to the touch, Allows for quite a lot of space in between particles and as a result is very free draining. This has its disadvantages however as it does not hold water and essential nutrients it can get washed away. Loamy soil this is the best type of soil texture you can have in your garden. This is soil whose properties are controlled equally by the percentages of clay, silt and sand particles. It is well drained but does not loose water too easily as is the case with sandy and sometimes silty soils. The fact that it retains water means it also retains nutrients for your plants to use. It has a great structure and is easy to develop. Organic soil is made of organic matter including horse, cattle or poultry manure, and fish emulsion or cottonseed meal. Inorganic soil is made of inorganic matter. Naturally-occurring inorganic fertilizers include sodium nitrate, limestone and rock phosphate. Manufactured fertilizers include ammonium nitrate and potassium sulphate. The purpose of composting is to turn the waste materials from your garden and kitchen into a rich, organic, soil-conditioning material. A compost pile does this efficiently by accelerating the natural processes that occur when dead leaves, grasses, and other materials decompose. Piling organic materials up while they decay is better than digging them into the ground because; when piled up, they don’t temporarily rob growing plants of available nitrogen while breaking down. What you put in your compost pile will depend on the waste material available from your garden and kitchen, but you should follow a few basic rules so you don’t create a trash pile. Spread a layer of plant material, such as fallen leaves, green or dry weeds, and grass clippings, on a flat piece of cleared ground. Add layers of manure topsoil, and kitchen scraps. Keep adding more layers until you’ve used up all the debris. Don’t put too much of one material in the same layer or it will tend to pack together, slowing the breakdown and causing odor. Chop or grind materials into small pieces before you add them to the pile. Smaller particles offer more surfaces for decay organisms to work on. Materials such as grass clippings that are too fine, however, should be mixed with coarser pieces so they don’t turn into a slimy mass. Heat build-up is essential to make compost. Too shallow a pile won’t hold enough heat in, and breakdown will be slower. A compost pile 4 to 6 feet high will hold heat well and let air circulate. Some kind of a bin will make it easier to stack compost to this height. Steam rising from the pile is a sign that heat is being genera ted. Keep the pile moist, but not soggy. Too much water limits the air supply. A pile with a slightly concave shape will catch and hold the moisture better. During prolonged periods of heavy rainfall, cover the pile with a plastic sheet or tarp to keep it from becoming soggy. If it does get too wet, frequent turning will restore it to a healthy condition. Turn the pile every few weeks. Good air circulation discourages odor and flies and speeds decay. Turning also moves the outer, undecomposed material into the center so it can break down. Plenty of succulent material, such as lawn clippings and soft green weeds, should be well mixed with dry or woody materials. Nitrogen is needed by the decay-producing bacteria. Sources of nitrogen are fresh manure, blood meal, sewage sludge, and commercial fertilizers. Compost is ready to use when it is crumbly and the original materials have decomposed beyond recognition—usually about three months after the heap is built. Sift the compost before you use it to eliminate large, undecomposed chunks. Planting a green manure cover crop is a goo
A. 2 feet
B. 3 feet
C. 4 feet
D. 5 feet